2
02 Broadcaster Press
December 23, 2014 www.broadcasteronline.com
The Art of Success Series:
Mr. Smith’s: worst-kept secret, best-made bread
By Sarah Wetzel
For the Plain Talk
Newcomers to
Vermillion, SD might drive
past the Ace Hardware at
812 Cottage Avenue and
have no idea that a
nationally-recognized
gourmet bakery and
sandwich shop operates
inside the former Jones’
Food Center.
“[Mr. Smith’s] used to
be part of our grocery store
that was here in this
location,” said Bob Starr,
general manager. “That was
our deli at the time.”
Little did anyone know,
but one man would enter
the doors of Jones’ Food
Center and change the fate
of the deli forever.
“Mr. Smith’s is actually
named after Larry Smith
who was a long-time baker
of ours for many years who
came from the Northeast,”
Starr said. “He and his wife,
Betty, moved here to
Vermillion. Betty is with the
political science
department at USD. Larry
came walking in our doors
and said ‘Hey, I bake bread.
Let me show you what I can
do.’ And he did and we were
absolutely blown away.”
Not only were locals
blown away by the baking
guru, but so apparently was
Oprah.
“It got to be so popular
that he was featured in
Oprah Magazine,” Starr
said. “Basically it became
one of her favorite things. It
just kind of took off from
there.”
Customers can still view
the article written for
‘Oprah Magazine’ in 2002
which is framed and hung
in the eating area of Mr.
Smith’s today.
"The best bread in the
world is not in Paris,” Amy
Bloom of ‘Oprah Magazine’
wrote. “It's not in San
Francisco, and it's not being
made in some chic little
bakery/art gallery in SoHo
either. The best bread in
the world is waiting for you
right at the front of Jones'
Food Center, 812 Cottage
Avenue, in downtown
Vermillion, South Dakota.”
So what is the key to the
bread’s magic?
"We all have to make
dinner, so you might as well
make it a nice one,” Smith
is quoted on the store’s
website. “But you never - in
our culture - have to make
bread. So to choose that,
it's an act of giving. An act
of love, I think. Every loaf."
The love and giving
certainly paid off and as the
Christmas Closure
We will close at noon on Wednesday, December 24
and will be closed all day on Thursday, December 25.
bp
Since 1934
popularity of Smith’s bread
grew, so did the menu.
“We did the bread and
then we thought hey, these
breads that Larry is
making, they make
fantastic sandwiches,” Starr
said. “We had a team get
together and we created
this menu and it’s been
hugely successful ever
since.”
This success is part of
what carried Mr. Smith’s
through the remodel of the
store as the grocery portion
of the store prepared to
close in 2012.
According to Starr,
Jones’ Food Center was
open about 15 years before
the company decided to
expand the Ace Hardware
portion of their store.
“Ultimately we decided
to close the grocery store
and move the hardware
store over but we knew
with the business that [Mr.
Smith’s] did, we had to
keep that open somehow,”
Starr said. “So in looking at
Target and some of those
other places, you know
merchandise stores, they
operate with food service
businesses. We thought
we’ll give this a try.”
Since the expansion of
the hardware store, Mr.
Smith’s has undergone a
few changes including a
major remodel about a year
ago.
But there is one thing
that has not changed.
“All of the breads that
we use from this location
Tucked in the corner of Ace Hardware lies Mr. Smith's, a nationally-renowned bakery/cafe
with an inspirational story.
SARAH WETZEL / FOR THE PLAIN TALK
were basically created by
Larry Smith and these are
the things that he did that
caught the eye of Oprah
Magazine,” Starr said. “We
bake these specialty breads
from scratch. The breads
take time, energy and
passion.”
It is more than just
Smith’s bread that makes
him impressive.
“He has Parkinsons
disease,” Starr said. “He was
diagnosed many years ago.”
According to Starr, this
could not keep Smith
down.
“He has never once let
this disease get the best of
him,” Starr said. “He is one
of the most upbeat, one of
the most inspirational
gentlemen you’ll ever meet.
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The way he treated the
disease was by working here
and baking breads and
kneading the dough. He
was the reason we said,
‘We’re naming this
operation after you.
“You’re the one that has
been here. This is largely in
honor of you and
everything you’ve
brought.’”
According to Starr,
Smith still lives in the area
but Parkinsons has not
allowed him to work for a
number of years.
“He has inspired so
many people for so many
years,” Starr said. “He
trained his people so well
that they were able to carry
on what he created.”
So what does Mr.
Smith’s offer?
“It’s unique,” Starr said.
“You can go to any major
sandwich shop in town. We
do something different.”
Customers of Mr.
Smith’s have many options
to choose from as they
choose either signature
sandwiches and soups or
customize their order by
making the sandwich hot
or adding garnishes, meats,
vegetables and sauces.
And, of course, choosing
bread.
“You gotta hang your
hat on something special
and these breads are what
basically do it,” Starr said.
“These are items you’re not
going to find at your local
Subway or Jimmy Johns.
These are items that people
recognize. There’s a big
difference in what we offer
and that’s why they keep
coming back.”
Customers can also
choose to have Mr. Smith’s
come to them.
According to Starr, the
dine-in vs take-out is about
half and half.
“People call ahead and
place orders, people eat
here, people call in and we
deliver it to them,” Starr
said. “It’s kind of however
you’re feeling that day.
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Whatever it takes, we’ll
make it happen.”
Once you find a favorite
menu item, Starr says, you
should switch it up.
“People come in and say
my favorite is the Big
Smith,” he said. “Typically
I’ll get that on a Focaccia
roll but i’ll try it on this
today. I’m going to try it
hot, I’m going to try it cold.
We allow people to try
anything that they want.”
The experience is
apparently most of what
keeps customers coming in,
as there is no indication on
the storefront that the
building houses anything
other than Ace Hardware
and Wells Fargo.
“It’s something that
college kids come in, they
experience, they tell others,
others come in and they say
oh my goodness you’re not
kidding,” Starr said. “And
let’s be honest, the Oprah
deal was something that
really carried us. For many,
many years we had people
coming across the interstate
saying ‘Hey, here’s the place
they talked about in Oprah
magazine. Let’s go see what
the fuss is all about,’ and
they come in and are blown
away with what we offer.”
According to Starr,
quality is number one on
Mr. Smith’s priority list.
“We don’t claim to be
the cheapest out there but
our quality is unmatched
and that is why people keep
coming back,” he said. “It’s
one of those things that you
get what you pay for.
There’s a lot of tender
loving care that’s put into
these things. That’s why
people find us so
interesting.”
In a culture where
everyone is concerned with
‘what’s next’, Starr said part
of coming up with the next
best thing is listening to the
customers.
“Customers feel like they
can give us suggestions and
a lot of the time we’ll try it
and if it works, we’ll offer
them,” he said. “That’s
something we’ve always
been a fan of since day one.
“A lot of our regulars
know us well enough and
we know them well enough
that they’re always talking
to us,” Starr said. “We know
them on first-name basis
and they know us and it’s a
partnership that has
worked for a long time.”
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